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星期五, 5月 05, 2017

Edward Enninful Is Named Editor-in-Chief at British Vogue英版Vogue雜誌 首見男性、黑人總編輯


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紐時周報精選 Edward Enninful Is Named Editor-in-Chief at British Vogue英版Vogue雜誌 首見男性、黑人總編輯
Going Under the Knife, With Eyes and Ears Wide Open想看你的肌腱嗎?醒著動手術 醫病關係新紀元
紐時周報精選
 
Edward Enninful Is Named Editor-in-Chief at British Vogue英版Vogue雜誌 首見男性、黑人總編輯
文/Elizabeth Paton
譯/田思怡

Edward Enninful, the creative and fashion director of the U.S. magazine W, is set to replace Alexandra Shulman as editor-in-chief of British Vogue, its parent company, Conde Nast, confirmed Monday. The first man and the first black editor to take the helm of Britain's most powerful fashion publication in its 100-year history, Enninful will begin his new role Aug. 1.

A top stylist and acclaimed fashion director who migrated to Britain from Ghana as a child, the 45-year-old Enninful is known for his cheerful demeanor, his legendary fashion covers and for having an army of loyal fans in and out of the fashion business. He received an Order of the British Empire in June for his services to diversity in the fashion industry.

英國版Vogue雜誌的母公司康泰納仕4月10日證實,美國W雜誌的創意與時尚總監艾德華.恩寧佛將接替亞歷珊卓.舒爾曼,擔任該雜誌總編輯。恩寧佛將在8月1日走馬上任,他將是這個英國最有影響力的時尚刊物創立一百年來,執掌大權的第一位男性,也是第一位黑人總編輯。

45歲的恩寧佛是頂尖造型師和備受讚譽的時尚總監,他孩童時期從迦納移民英國,以快活的舉止表情、傳奇的時尚雜誌封面,以及在時尚圈內和圈外擁有大批鐵粉聞名。去年6月獲頒大英帝國勳章,表彰他對時尚產業多元化的貢獻。

Conde Nast's international chairman and chief executive, Jonathan Newhouse, called Enninful "an influential figure in the communities of fashion, Hollywood and music which shape the cultural zeitgeist," and added that "by virtue of his talent and experience, Edward is supremely prepared to assume the responsibility of British Vogue."

The appointment comes three months after Newhouse named another man, Emanuele Farneti, to the helm of Italian Vogue, following the death of Franca Sozzani.

康泰納仕國際集團董事長兼執行長強納森.紐豪斯說,恩寧佛是「形塑時代思潮的時尚界、好萊塢和音樂界一位具有影響力的人物」,「憑他的才華和經驗,艾德華已為承擔英國版Vogue的責任做好了萬全的準備。」

在決定這項任命的三個月前,紐豪斯任命了另一位男士艾曼紐爾.法內提出掌義大利版的Vogue,接替去世的法蘭加.索薩妮。

Enninful was an unexpected choice. Born in Ghana, Enninful was raised by his seamstress mother in the Ladbroke Grove area of London, alongside five siblings. At 16, he became a model for the British magazine i-D after being scouted while traveling on the Tube, London's subway system. He has called modeling his "baptism into fashion."

By 17, he was assisting on photography shoots for the publication with the stylists Simon Foxton and Beth Summers. In 1991, at 18, he took over from Summers as i-D fashion editor, making him one of the youngest-ever leaders of a major fashion publication. He also obtained a degree from Goldsmiths, University of London.

恩寧佛是出人意料的人選。他在迦納出生,當裁縫的母親在倫敦蘭僕林區把他和5個兄弟姊妹撫養長大。16歲時,他在搭乘倫敦地鐵時被星探相中,成為英國i-D雜誌的模特兒。他把自己的模特兒經驗稱為「進入時尚界的受洗禮」。

到了17歲,他協助造型師西蒙.佛克斯頓和貝絲.桑默斯為這本刊物拍攝照片。1991年18歲時,他取代桑默斯,成為i-D雜誌時尚編輯,使他成為主要時尚刊物有史以來最年輕的主管之一。他並取得倫敦大學金匠學院的文憑。

Although there are a handful of notable exceptions, the fashion industry has a dearth of black power players, and that had been a source of immense frustration for Enninful, who has made a considerable effort to improve things. He has made headlines with accusations of racism, including after he was assigned to sit in the second row at a couture show in Paris in 2013 when white "counterparts" were in the first.

雖然有少數著名的例外,時尚產業極欠缺有權力的黑人,這一直令恩寧佛極感挫折,而他已相當努力以謀求改進。他曾因指控種族歧視而上了大新聞,包括2013年在巴黎一場高級訂製服的秀上,他被指定坐在第二排,而與他「地位相當」的白人坐在第一排。

 
Going Under the Knife, With Eyes and Ears Wide Open想看你的肌腱嗎?醒著動手術 醫病關係新紀元
文/Jan Hoffmann
譯/田思怡

"Do you want to see your tendons?"

Dr. Asif Ilyas, a hand and wrist surgeon, was about to close his patient's wound. But first he offered her the opportunity to behold the source of her radiating pain: a band of tendons that looked like pale pink ribbon candy. With a slender surgical instrument, he pushed outward to demonstrate their newly liberated flexibility.

"That's pretty neat," the patient, Esther Voynow, managed to gasp.

「你想看看你的肌腱嗎?」

專門處理手部和腕部的外科醫師阿西夫.伊爾亞斯準備為他的病人縫合傷口。但他先讓她有機會看她放射性疼痛的來源:看起來像淡粉色彩帶糖的一束肌腱。他用一件細長的外科手術器材把肌腱往外推,以展示新獲解放的彈性。

病人艾絲瑟.瓦伊瑙幾乎喘不過氣地說:「真不錯。」

The operation Ilyas performed, called a De Quervain's release, is usually done with the patient under anesthesia. But Voynow, her medical inquisitiveness piqued and her distaste for anesthesia pronounced, had chosen to remain awake, her forearm rendered numb with only an injection of a local anesthetic.

More surgery is being performed with the patient awake and looking on, for both financial and medical reasons. But as surgical patients are electing to keep their eyes wide open, doctor-patient protocol has not kept pace with the new practice. Patients can become unnerved by a seemingly ominous silence, or put off by what passes for office humor. Doctors are only beginning to realize that when a patient is alert, it is just not OK to say, "Oops!" or "I wasn't expecting that," or even "Oh, my God, what are you doing?!"

伊爾亞斯做的手術稱為狹窄性肌腱滑膜炎(俗稱媽媽手)緩解術,手術時病患通常會麻醉。但瓦伊瑙受到醫學好奇心驅使,加上很不喜歡麻醉,選擇保持清醒,只打了一針局部麻醉針,讓前臂失去知覺。

基於費用和醫學考量,愈來愈多手術是在病人保持清醒和注視下進行。但是在接受手術的病人選擇睜大眼睛之際,醫生與病人之間的行為準則卻沒跟上這種新做法的腳步。病人可能因為似乎予人不祥之感的沉默而緊張,或是因為所謂的辦公室幽默而覺得尷尬。醫師們也才剛剛開始明白,當病人處於警覺狀態時,可不能說「糟糕!」或「我沒預料到」,甚至「哇,我的老天啊,你在做什麼?!」

"For a thousand years, we talked about the operating theater," said Dr. Mark Siegler, a medical ethicist at the University of Chicago and an author of a recent study on surgeon-patient communication during awake procedures, published in The American Journal of Surgery. "And for the first time, in recent years the patient has joined the cast."

Choosing to watch your own surgery is one more manifestation of the patient autonomy movement, in which patients, pushing back against physician paternalism, are eager to involve themselves more deeply in their own medical treatment.

芝加哥大學的醫學倫理專家馬克.席格勒說:「我們談手術劇場已談了一千年,這幾年,病人才頭一次加入演員陣容。」他最近在「美國外科手術期刊」上發表了一篇有關清醒手術過程中醫病溝通的研究報告。

選擇看著自己的手術進行,是病人自主運動的又一表現,在這個運動中,病人反抗醫師的家長式作風,樂於更深入參與自身的治療。

A few studies suggest that some patients feel less anxious about staying awake during surgery, despite possible gruesome sights, than they do about being sedated.

Voynow did not need a preoperative physical exam, blood work, an IV drip or even an attending anesthesiologist. As nurses wheeled her on a gurney out of the O.R., she looked pleasantly surprised. "I've had root canals that were worse," she said.

一些研究顯示,部分病人覺得在手術時保持清醒,反而不像被麻醉那麼讓人焦慮,儘管可能會看到駭人的景象。

瓦伊瑙不需要術前身體檢查、驗血、靜脈注射,甚至一位麻醉主治醫師。當護理師用輪床把她推出手術室時,她顯得既意外又愉快,她說:「這還沒有我接受過的一些根管治療可怕呢。」

 
訊息公告
 
算命的意義,是希望還是制約?
或許真的有能洩露天機的大師,不是要一竿子打翻一條船,我想表達的是,姑且不論準不準,命理師的說法,很容易影響一個人的未來發展。

香港後花園 探訪西貢秘境
都說西貢海鮮遠近馳名,鮮味無窮的料理最療癒,除此,它還擁有香港版「天空的鏡子」萬宜水庫倒影,以及夢幻的「天使之路」連島沙洲,都是旅人嚮往的秘境。
 
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